A holiday in ruins

Stories by SONJA MUSTAFFA

Many temples sit high on the hills because this is where the sky meets the earth and therefore believed to be the holy perch of the gods. To climb the hundreds of steps, you need a good pair of walking shoes and boundless energy.

Delphi, in the Parnassos mountains, is not only a ski resort but also the site of the ruins of the Temple of Apollo, where dwelled the oracle, an aged priestess who predicted the future.

Women were chosen for this role because Greeks believed women represented fertility and reproduction, so naturally they could predict the future.

According to legend, the navel of the earth, omphalos, is also located near here, in the Sacred Precinct. It was pinpointed by two eagles sent out by Zeus to circle the globe and find the centre of the world.

Many treasuries (vaults containing statues, carvings etc, from rich Greek cities) were built in the Sacred Precinct, and its contents are on display in the museum next door.

Amongst the exhibits are the Charioteer, a bronze sculpture with extraordinary detail, the winged Sphinx of the Naxians (a grave ornament from Egypt) and carved friezes.

It was here that we learnt that nakedness to the ancient Greeks represented heroism, which explains male nudity in paintings, carvings etc. This was material for ribald jokes on the bus — I should’ve packed earplugs.

Delphi has a small population of 300 families, all involved in tourism. The quaint town looks out onto olive groves and the Corinthian Bay.

Olympia in Peloponnese (southern Greece) is where the Olympic Games originated in 776BC. It is also still where the Olympic flame is ignited in an ancient ritual before it is taken to the different venues every four years.

For a long time, this site that contained the Temples of Zeus and Hera, ancient sports facilities and a 200m track stadium was concealed by the rivers Alpheus and Kladeos. The Germans discovered the site in the 19th century when the rivers changed course.

Only recently, through radar technology, a hippodrome under the river was discovered. Archeological work should begin soon, with funding likely coming from the Greek government, United Nations and rich benefactors.

The Olympiads were a male-only preserve and athletes competed naked (a sign of devotion). The only women allowed in were the priestesses who ignited the Olympic flame; the others had to watch from Kronos Hill, where the competitors would have looked like ants.

The archeological museum contains pediments from the Temple of Zeus, a scale model of a large gold and ivory statue of Zeus (one of the seven ancient wonders of the world) and a marble carving of Hermes (the messenger of the gods) and the infant Dionysus (the god of wine). The realism kept me transfixed.

Every diva dreams of singing at the ancient Theatre of Epidauros, a World Heritage Site and part of a sanctuary dedicated to Asklepieion, the God of Healing. She would not need a microphone because of the amazing acoustics. Classical drama performances are a mainstay. The tickets are hot-sellers, even to non-Greek speakers.

Famous Greek bard/poet, Homer, wrote about Mycenea — “a city rich in gold” — even before he knew it existed. But German archeologist, Heinrich Schliemann, was convinced that the kingdom of Agamemnon (Greek mythology) did exist.

His instincts were proven right in 1874 when he unearthed more than 14kg of gold artefacts (now on display at the National Archeological Museum in Athens).

In the Citadel of Mycenea, Schliemann discovered a gravesite containing corpses whose faces were covered with golden masks and bodies in gold leaf.

He was convinced, and even managed to convince the world, that King Agamemnon was buried here.

But some dates don’t tally. Unless new information comes to light, the world will continue believing that this is the king’s final resting place. Of particular interest here is the beehive tomb or Treasury of Atreus.

On our way back to Athens, we crossed the Corinth Canal. Although not a ruin, it is historical no less. About 7km long, it saves small ships a 300km-400km journey around Peloponnese.

Work to sever a narrow strip of land (isthmus) between Peloponnese and the mainland started in Roman times during the reign of Emperor Nero (54AD-68AD). He broke the ground with a silver shovel and left the hard work to Jewish slaves. He died shortly afterwards and the digging stopped. The project was revived in 1870.

At each end of the canal are submersible bridges for vehicles. If a ship needs to cross, these bridges are lowered back into the water.

The canal may only be 21m wide but there’s a long drop. Bungee jumping can be arranged here and tourist boats come by all the time.

Entrance fees: Delphi museum/site, €9; Olympia museum/site, €6; Epidauros, €6; Mycenae, €8.

Courtasy The Star Online